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    March 28

    南方的午睡季节

          某个夜晚,雨水会前来扫一遍地面与树叶,就像女孩子难以抗拒的、用牛奶去泡咖啡饼干。天亮时,你紧张的穿上厚外套,以为晨间冷空气会像刀一样割你的脸——但是,看见灰银色的云后那片蓝天,你就知道,刀收起来了,一只手软绵绵的摸了一把,窃笑着逃走了。

    南方的春天年年如此,你做梦时以为树叶浇碎、雨季来临,醒来却发现艳阳高照,午间会热得只能穿件衬衣。来得太快,总是会让你觉得炎热慵懒。当然,像聪明的女孩穿了几天短裙又会换身大针织毛衣似的,隔一周,天气就冷一遍。就像等你喝完了温汤之后,来一遍清凉的猕猴桃果汁。
    
    幸而寒冷是一去不复返的了,院落里的猫未卜先知,张牙舞爪的在阳台上彼此抛媚眼,寻欢做乐。餐厅里的服务生会殷勤劝你多试试新鲜蔬菜和水果,避免再提那些油腻肥厚的菜式——女孩儿会们皱眉不迭。洗衣服时不用犹豫再三,早晨起来也不必胆战心惊。人行道上,人们飞走如风,两周前还冬眠在领、袖里的脖子和手,现在出来看世界了。
    
    坏处在于,你会开始不断打呵欠,到了午间,会觉得眼皮沉重。暖和的天色像蜂蜜一样粘你的眼皮,天色晴朗,并没有什么事紧急得间不容发。于是睡一觉吧……柔软、绵长,厚被子一样的困意,就像小时候喝多了串巷卖的酒酿,被爸妈抱进卧室去睡着时一样:这就是午睡的春季。
    
    南方的春季午间有类似于温酒的效果,许多盛开的白玉兰、一路铺展的阳光和树叶交织的影子,都让你觉得自己在暗处,是只没有人发觉的穴居松鼠。没有冷或热随时刺激感官,你沉浸在温水般的空气里,炎热不带丝毫敌意,像无意间用身体蹭你的猫。睡眠成了最大的诱惑,因为那是最自然的动作:什么都不需要,只需要跌进去,顺势睡着,就像跌进一床羽毛被一样毫无声息。
    
    南方的午睡是一种瘟疫,被一个巫婆咕噜咕噜的念叨传播:温度计滑向春天,花的甜香让人们身体发软;或者,像武侠小说里反派专用的、无形无色、空气传播的药:两派大侠正严肃聊着,忽然就着了道儿。巧克力、甜酒、蔬菜、绒毛玩具和新鲜橘子,夜晚飞扬跋扈的猫狗欢叫,色调温和、始终明亮的天空,这些潜移默化,无时不刻提醒你:这是春天,你应当被催眠睡着。
    
    某些年轻女孩可以抵制南方的午睡:她们像脱壳而出的母鸡,在南方阳光下咯咯叫唤;男人们因为午饭、茶水和工作纷纷行尸走肉、一闭眼就会睡倒的情况下,她们却活跃新鲜,言语缤纷。从这个角度来讲,她们是最为自然的一伙:猫狗鸟虫纷纷出山,树叶密密麻麻享受青春期的同时,她们也精力充沛,从冬季时冰箱冻鸡的萎靡状态恢复,而且绽放光芒。她们的裙摆和长发在人行道来回飞舞,像光合作用以维持生计的怪异植物。
    
    但这一切都是暂时的,春季逐渐推深之后,催眠的咒语总会无药可解。南方的雨季和阳光会让空气里挂满甜香味,就像蛋糕上不断抹厚的奶油,于是再坚强的人都会被甜腻的午后搅扰得无心反抗。午睡被延长到一天中的所有时光,南方的人们像身处恋爱一样精神涣散、昏昏欲睡的走过四月和五月。那些时间里风景繁茂、天空蔚蓝、花鸟明媚,但没人会记得。因为在春季,整个南方都在一个悠长的梦中午睡,感官会被粘稠的春光封住,失去记忆的能力。
     

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